San Pedro de Atacama, Chile

Early start as I crept out of the hostel this morning in the dark and made my way to the bus station. The bus is mainly tourists that I can tell and I recognise a couple to say ‘hola’ to. I am sat next to a nice Italian girl, Vanessa and the seats are pretty comfortable so I am hopeful for a good trip. I managed to make myself some banana sandwiches for breakfast this morning, despite the ticket promising food, I am never sure and this time I get a alfajore for breakfast…one! So happily tuck into my food stash. I sleep for the first 2 or 3 hours as we head north up to Purmamarca before turning west. I see the hill with seven colours for the third time and we pass across the Salinas Grandes which is as dazzling as the first time. This trip is 10 hours and it goes quite quickly with some amazing scenery to look at. The border crossing is okay, it still takes an hour and is a little confusing but it is nice to be off the bus in the cooler air. We eventually pull into San Pedro de Atacama around 5pm, initial impressions are of a small Wild West town but it is very tranquil and quiet. The hostel is very welcoming and I chat to a couple of guests over dinner (including a Dutch guy who is riding a motorbike from Columbia to Ushuaia!). I have a banging headache that I am putting down to the higher altitude, so I am tucked up in bed by 9pm.

Salta, Argentina

Today is my last in Argentina and I wake keen to have a good day. The city is a little grey and rain clouds are gathering. Looking through things to do, I can visit the Town hall museum for free so I make my way to the central plaza after my sweet breakfast. The town hall is a pretty impressive building with two cobbled inner courtyards. There is a massive flowering climbing plant in the courtyard with leaves like jasmine but orange long flowers (should have asked what it was!). The exhibition of inca pots was moderately interesting but the rest was a bit dull and totally in Spanish. I felt like it killed time so headed to the art museum for a bit of contemporary art. This was very small and textile based, some of the copper work was nice but otherwise not exciting. I felt like my day wasn’t very inspiring and with the grey weather elected to spend the afternoon chilling at the hostel. For my last supper, it had to be steak and Malbec. I decided to try Viejo Jacks that the tour guide recommended yesterday as it wasn’t far and they do a good steak. It was a very quiet restaurant with one other couple in it, I nearly turned round but thought I should give it a try. As I was seated the waiter asked me where I was from, and when I replied Southampton the couple smiled and said they too were from Southampton. Such a small world, and I asked if I could join them! They didn’t seem to mind and we had a good chat about home & travels over a decent steak. Nicky and Liam are following a similar route to me so I hope to see them again. Day turned out good in the end…. Don’t cry for me Argentina!

Salta, Argentina

In every city a good place to start is always the walking tour. They will generally be offered free and you tip what you think they have earnt over the 2 or 3 hours. I joined the tour in front of the cathedral, with about 8 other people on this grey and drizzley day. It was interesting, few things I learnt; Salta was originally called Saga by the Quechua which means ‘the beautiful’ but the Spanish could not pronounce it and so renamed it Salta. The pope visited in 1982 to try and inspire peace during the Falklands war. During his visit the 250k population swelled to 1.5million. The city houses are mainly of a neo-colonial style are built the same height as the road is wide to provide shade in the absence of trees. Salta is one of only two cities that has retained their original town hall in its entirety. Places like Buenos Aires have reduced theirs to make way for road expansions. We visited San Francisco church and then onto the Convent of San Bernado. Here there are 9 Carmelite nuns that live here with have a vow of silence but you can pass messages to them through a rotating door. The most impressive part of the adobe building is the carved algarrobo wooden entrance door. This was made in the 18th century and donated by a wealthy family when their daughter joined the convent. We visit the Gral Güemes memorial that celebrates independence won from Spanish rule by both local gouchos and Spanish army defectors led by Belgrano. Our guide points out a few restaurants he likes and then walks us to Belgrano plaza. The group is interesting and talking to two Aussie girls (Emma and Tamsin) we make plans to go to a peña this evening. I excitedly walk up to see if my phone is fixed and it is! It costs more due to new battery but £35 is a bargain to get it back all secure prior to heading to desert and Bolivia. The peña is in La Casa de la mollina, around 20minutes in a taxi from the centre. We order more traditional food of Locro (maize based soup with meat) and humitas. There is a male singer with guitar in part of the room and everyone seems to enjoy the folk style music, clapping away or singing along. Lovely atmosphere and evening for my penultimate night in Argentina.

Salta, Argentina

Today I need to do a few jobs, one of the most exciting days is Laundry day when you are travelling. You get your whole wardrobe back all fresh smelling and neatly folded, it’s a little thing that makes me skip to the Lavanderia. I also have a slight issue with my phone, the screen is lifting up at the top so I can see the inside of the phone. I have an elastic band trying to hold it tight but I am going to try and take it into a repair shop to get it fixed before I go to the dusty Atacama desert. I find a really small shop in the northern part of the city, and the guy seems genuine enough when he says he can repair for £10 and be done by 9pm. A whole day without my phone, definitely is my life so I hope it is ok. The Cathedral in Salta is such a pretty building that I am keen to have a look inside. The outside is a sugary pink colour and it reminds me of a fondant fancy. The inside is very grand and a painted ceiling leading to a gold shimmery altar. There is the traditional (slightly kitch) doll representing the Virgin Mary. The Cathedral also houses the tomb of Martín Miguel de Güemes who was a military leader who defended northwestern Argentina from the Spanish during the Argentine War of Independence. It is starting to warm up and as I walk down to San Martin park, I feel an ice cream is needed. There are plenty around, so I stop for 3 scoops. Chocolate, raspberry and a delicious apple sorbet. The park is a bit barren compared to other city parks but I am assuming the climate makes a difference here. From here I can take a cable car up to Cerro San Bernado where you can get a panoramic view of the city. It is a big city and I can easily pick out the sugar coloured churches I have visited. From the top you can walk down the hill, it’s a fair few hundred steps but good exercise. I don’t envy those climbing up as I pass them. Tonight I skip to pick up my laundry and then my phone. Bad news on the phone, the screen was lifting as the battery is overheating and expanding. Ernesto can put a new battery in but needs another day, it needs fixing so I agree and wander back to the hostel without it. Laundry smells good, and they have threaded string through my smalls to ensure none are lost = genius!

Salta, Argentina

We wake up in Salta and it is Inka’s last day before flying back early tomorrow to Buenos Aires. I am staying in the city for a few more days, so I’ve suggested Inka sets the day out with what she is keen to see. First stop is the tourist office to see if there is a walking tour we can join. It is Sunday, so the city is very relaxed and quiet, there is also no tour today. We grab a few maps and when I ask for a tour with English, I mispronounce and request a tour with churches. Turns out they have a map of such a tour and as Salta is famed for its churches it doesn’t seem a bad idea. Inka manages to find a bus tour leaving at 4pm, which should enable her to see a few more sights including a market! We set off on our church tour and visit San Francisco church first. This is one of the most ornate structures, with even curtains part of the concrete facade. Inka gets chatting to the caretaker and he kindly offers to show us around. This is fantastic as he shows us the private prep chambers and even takes us behind the altar to reveal a hidden passage way that was used in the war of Independence smuggling people to the Cathedral. We resume our tour after viewing these back of house areas and visit several other churches. They are all different and some are ornately decorated in pastel colours. Each seem to have a service in progress, so I think I went to four different ones in one day. I particularly liked the one who broadcast the words through outdoor speakers and you could sit in the pretty garden to listen. We stop at the Plaza for a disappointing lunch before heading to the Museum of high altitude archaeology. The name does not give away the subjects of this interesting museum. It is the home of 3 inca children found in 1999 on mount Llullaillaco 6,700 metre high up. The children continue to be cryopreserved at -20degrees as they were found in a uniquely natural preserved condition. You can only view one as they rotate the exposure time. The turn today was of ‘The lightning girl’, a 6 year old married and sacrificed probably to bless in harmonious tribes. The girl had a conical shaped head which indicates nobility, a sun virgin brought up in house of chosen women. Once selected and married to a opposing tribe leaders sun she was given a maize drink to put her to sleep and then buried with offerings. The other children are a 15yr old girl and a 7yr old boy. The viewing of the body was a little bit creepy, and she was so lifelike I felt like she would open her eyes at any moment. I kept looking away to avoid staring too much. Too soon Inka’s tour is due to start and we dash to the hotel for her to grab her things. I read for the few hours she is away and then we have a cheeky farewell beer to celebrate our adventures. Poem to the children: Plegaria a Los ninos del Llullailloco

Tumbaya, Argentina

Our last night in our lovely hotel, I eat my fill at breakfast and savour the coffee. So far the coffee has been awful in Argentina, but this place brews a good pot. We pack up and head down the hill towards the bus station. Our plan is to catch a bus to Purmamarca and then a taxi out to the Salinas Grandes (Salt flats) as it will be cheaper than a taxi from Tilcara. On the way a taxi stops and offers to take us, looking at time versus money this looks like a better option if we are to make our bus at 3pm. The road winds up for about an hour to 4170metres and then drops down to the salt flats. The scenery is spectacular, with lots of different types of rock and every turn seems to warrant another picture. The salt flats are as expected, but mesmerising as a bright white carpet to the mountains. The texture is interesting as crusty and solid, where I was thinking salt like sand. They have built structures with sections, using it like bricks which is amazing. We spend about 30mins jumping for photos before having to get back on the road. We can sense as we leave that the car is struggling, the gearbox is the issue and we get to Purmamarca in 2nd gear, him pumping the clutch and praying. Once we are there we get into his friends car to get back to Tilcara, where we grab our bags from the hotel and drive down to town. We have 30mins to spare, so Inka manages to buy more llama socks from the market whilst I caretake bags at the bus station. I needn’t have worried the bus is over an hour late, but once again it is not full so we can stretch out for the 4 hours to Salta. Once we have collected my big bag from the previous hotel and checked into our new pad we can relax with a well earned steak and beer!

Humahuaca, Argentina

We have a fabulous breakfast this morning with a really friendly lady who makes a few suggestions as to what we can do today. She completely sells the town of Humahuaca (pronounced more like ‘mawaka’) showing us a picture of a series of rocks with awesome zigzag colours, 14 apparently. Once sold we cannot find a tour to join that will take us that way, but she suggests we could do it ourselves via a bus and then there are guys with pickup trucks who will take us up to the view. This sounds a little dodgy but we merrily set off to the bus station to get on a local bus. This is easy and super cheap, depositing us into the centre of Humahuaca. We know the road to the jeeps but a friendly guy called Carlos is happy to show us the way. The jeep is a good model and they obviously only go once they have 4 passengers to fill the ride. Luckily for us there are a Argentinian couple already waiting so once introductions are done we set off. It is actually further than I imagined, ascending a windy gravel path to 4350metres. We pass a herd of Llamas on the way up and as we move higher the Argentinian girl offers coco leaves. These are traditional used by locals to ward off the effects of altitude sickness. You fold a pinch of leaves into a parcel and wedge it into your top gum. I didn’t realise Inka hadn’t used before and so it was a few minutes until we spotted her chewing on them. This would be disgusting as they are like bitter tea leaves, she happily spits them out and tries again. We reach the stop and get out, the view is jaw dropping and I genuinely can’t believe it is this spectacular. There is a short walk down to the Mirador del Hornocal where you can take in the full panorama. I didn’t count the colours but it was impressive seeing the craggy rocks weave colour through the valley in front. The walk back up to the jeep is actually harder, probably due to the altitude but we make it and descend back to Humahuaca. This is a lovely town, a little bigger than Tilcara but the same Adobe houses lining the streets. The first stop is coffee and Humita, which is a traditional snack of creamed corn in a steamed parcel. There is a pretty little square and lots of people selling stuff to keep Inka happy! With the sun out it is too hot for me and I regularly have to just sit in shade. We climb up the monument to independence and look round the cemetery before setting off back to Tilcara on a faster bus this time. The buses and jeep ride cost us around £15 each which was a bargain compared to the tours and very easy to do. We still have time to walk around Tilcara when we get back and visit the church before the sun sets and it starts getting cold. Of the 3 places in the are we have visited I like Tilcara the best, feels a good size with a warm welcome. Dinner tonight is Locro at La Piladita, a traditional meal of maize, meat and beans a bit soup or stew like. This is nice and warming on a 6 degree evening, which seems crazy after the 24degree heat of the day.

Tilcara, Argentina

We head down to our 4 star breakfast, which includes yogurt and fruit. This is rare and a change from just sweet stuff, which I eat anyway! I leave my big bag at the hotel, we are heading to Tilcara about 4 hours north of Salta for 2 nights so just taking my day pack. Our return bus fare is around £20 and the bus leaves promptly at 10.30. We manage to stretch out into spare seats and time passes easily, I must be getting used to these drives. About an hour from Tilcara we start climbing up, out of fairly green vegetation and into a more rugged desert like landscape. This is quite dramatic, and the rock colours change periodically. There are also lots of cactus, which look great and lend us to nickname the region as the ‘Wild West’. Our bus drops us at a small terminal and we walk about 15mins up to our hotel, Villa del Cielo. This place is magical, lovely plush cabana rooms that look down on the town and across to the valley. We think we have about 4 hours of sunlight left and so figure a taxi to Pumamarca will be a good trip. Our driver takes us 30minutes down the road for £10 which seems a lot but it turns out about right. Pumamarca is a pretty town with a central square – 9 de Julio, which has a artisanal market around the edges. I see Inka’s face light up, and I start to see her passion for shopping as she excitedly chatted to traders. We opt to walk first and then shop, the sun is fading and it is actually getting cold. Pumamarca is famous for the Cerro de Los Siete Colores (hill of seven colours), which it transpires is best seen in the morning. We trek the Paseo de Los Colorados, it’s a path that winds behind the Cerro for 1hr and there are many types of rock. We even feel like textures of the rock change as well as colours, with some looking like wet mud or clay. It is a really nice walk but it is very cold in the shade, so we walk at pace and take a few short cuts. We finish on the other side of the town, passing the cemetery before hitting the plaza. Inka is going home soon and therefore buy a few things. It is all lovely stuff and I am sad that I have no space, but we enjoy chatting to the people as she buys a fluffy sweater and socks. (Llama patterns). We taxi back to Tilcara and we are relieved to enjoy piping hot showers to warm us up. Dinner in town is Llama fillet and Salta beer. Llama is tasty, light flavour, like pork I think and not the strong meat I was expecting.

Salta, Argentina

I was merrily faffing as I got ready today, went for breakfast and checked out before walking to the bus station. I had not really left enough time, on paper perhaps but when you factor in people walking slowly and not looking where they are going, I was almost at a run by the time I got to the bus station. The bus is late but quite smart, I am next to a middle aged Argentinan who seems friendly but doesn’t speak English so our conversation is limited. At one point he prepares his maté and I nervously pray I am not invited to share this bitter drink. Thankfully I am spared the politeness dictated that you graciously accept as he doesn’t offer, well it is a 4 hour journey and he only has one thermos. It is a smooth ride until the host asks me a question as he picks up my blanket, I don’t really understand and am fairly relaxed when we pull up next to another bus. My companion is getting off, he is transferring to the other bus as he is going to Salta…..what? Me too! I barely make it onto the bus and we set off. Forget to check that my main luggage has joined me but needn’t have fretted as it is there when we get to Salta. I have a quick look round the bus station trying to check out companies that will take me to the Atacama desert, Chile next week. There are about 5 companies which is good as the Internet only found 2, so I have plenty of options. I catch a taxi this time to the hotel, I am purposely here mid afternoon as it has a indoor pool and jacuzzi I can relax in! Lovely swim and chill this afternoon, waiting for me friend Inka to arrive on a flight from Buenos Aires. Inka is a lovely German lady I met at Spanish school, who was keen to see the North West. Our plan is to spend 5 days in the region, including 2 night north of Salta in Tilcara. Inka arrived at 9pm (so great to see her) and we head out for steak and Salta beer to celebrate the start of our adventure.