Last island today as we get up early to circumnavigate Daphne Island. This small island is home to the Finches which show evolutionary changes in a couple of years and it was the study of these that helped Darwin prove his theories. We enjoy the birds flying and the trusty Frigate birds hovering over the boat.
Once we have finished breakfast it is time to say our goodbyes to the crew and travel to the airport. I manage to get a Galápagos stamp in my passport before we leave for Quito. We arrive in Quito in the late afternoon and after a quick dip in the outdoor pool we sneak Hayley and Rob into the lounge for a few glasses of vino tinto.
Justin has been craving a burger, so the four of us walk down to Plaza Foch, and a place that does stuffed burgers with cheap beer. Colin and Kate find us, so the six of us order a couple more rounds for a merry last night.
A long motor from Fernandina over the top of Isabela, puts us back to Santiago Island. First up after breakfast is a snorkel, in supposedly warmer water. It’s cold, but we see fur seals on the rocks and there are lots of shoals of fish. The yellow tails are particularly spectacular as they form a carpet over the rocks. Then there are a couple of white tip sharks swimming casually around, easily the biggest we have seen at 5 or 6ft. As we move into sandier territory we all haul out ready to warm up on the boat with cinnamon tea.
Santiago Island is also an Island with cool rock formations, we saw lava tubes in the sea bed but on land are ones that have eroded to resemble a monk and one like an elephant. We cruise for a while over lunch as we approach Rabida Island which is know for its red mineral beaches.
Snorkel time again, and I have loved the amount of underwater action we have got to see on the trip. This session is quite choppy and cloudy due to a recent rock fall so visibility is limited. We still all enjoy it with chasing large yellow mullet shoals being a highlight.
Our walk onto Rabida Island is perhaps the prettiest yet. The rich red sands and rock have big flowering prickly pear cactus across them and silver coloured trees. We have Fur Seals lounging on the beach and American Oyster Catcher birds wadding in the water. The seal pups are really playful, dancing around in the breaking waves, even the adults are enjoying a few tumbles and stretches.
This evening is our toast to the crew and then a navigation to Daphne Island. The first few hours over dinner are particularly rocky and we are both unwell. Early night for me.
We didn’t navigate all night so it was a calm boat and everyone slept well. There was excitement at breakfast as the boys managed to spot Hammerhead Sharks circling the boat last night, my excitement was for the pile of pancakes served up to start the day.
Our first stop was a dry landing onto Isobela Island for the views from the top of the hill of the volcanos and of Darwin lake. The snorkelling on the shore nearby gave us more fish and a couple of turtles before I hit a few jellyfish and decided climbing back into the dingy would be safer.
We spotted Fin Whales just before lunch and the boat turned around so we could spend time observing them swimming around and spraying from their blow holes.
The afternoon was spent off Fernandina Island, the youngest of the Islands to the west of side of the archipelago. The snorkelling was amazing, so many Marine Turtles at one point I didn’t know where to look and was worried I would tread on them as they munched on the vegetation below.
Our final stop in Espinoza Point is for a short beach walk. This was fabulous, we had piles of Marine Iguanas sat on the lava rocks where we docked, sneezing the saline solution through their noses. There were hundreds of sea birds diving for fish including Flightless Cormorants, Pelicans and Boobies. The bay has lots of Turtles poping their heads up from the water, but the best part was the Galápagos Sea Lions. The pups were between 3 weeks and 6 months old, and just really adorably cute. The mothers did not like you getting too close though.
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Parroquia Tomas de Berlanga (Santo Tomas), Cantón Isabela, Ecuador
I slept for 10hours last night, solidly, so I was a little sleepy at breakfast. Our first excursion today was in the Dingys into Elizabeth bay and a mangrove area. We weaved in and out watching Blue Footed Boobies, Pelicans and Flightless Cormorants fish with some spectacular dives. Further in there were turtles and a group of Eagle Rays enjoying the currents. There were a few Sea Lions happy to do some twists and turns for the camera, before we reached a site where the turtles sleep. At least they were before we arrived! Returning to the boat we had a few Galápagos Penguins just happily preening their feathers and doing rolls in the water.
We navigated further round the bay hoping to see whales or dolphins in the deeper water but didn’t spot any. Anchored at Unvina bay we set off for a snorkel towards the beach. Along the rocks as we headed in were Marine Turtles feeding on the algae. Some of them were huge and just looked like boulders rolling as the currents pulled back and forth. At one point I had four around me and I was worried I would bump into one as they surfaced for air. It was a great snorkelling session, and despite the colder sea we stayed a good hour watching the turtles, huge shoals of fish or the Pelicans and Flightless Cormorants who were diving to grab them.
Post a hot shower we landed on the beach for a short stroll inland. This time we saw Yellow Iguanas, much bigger than the black ones we had seen previously and with colouring similar to an autumn leaf. We spotted one giant tortoise trying to sleep and a few nesting sites. There are several small Finches and more Iguanas towards the beach, even a couple fighting which seemed long-winded.
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Parroquia Tomas de Berlanga (Santo Tomas), Cantón Isabela, Ecuador
Rocky night last night and I woke up several times as we navigated to Isabela Island.
We hiked for about one hour to the top of the Cerro Negro and it’s wonderful crater. The misty clouds parted to show us the whole caldera, with a lava field below and a surround of lush green vegetation. The island has five volcanos and the last eruption from this one was 2005.
This afternoon we visited a flamingo pool and the Darwin giant tortoise breeding centre where we saw Cerro Negro tortoises alongside the different species of Cerro Azul tortoises and at different stages of their life cycle. The 100 year older cranky and wrinkled ones, right down to recently hatched. If they incubate the egg at 28degrees it will be female versus a male needing 29degrees.
The beach was cloudy but we walked to a lookout to see that the black lava rock was actually teaming with baby marine iguanas sunning themselves to keep warm. As we walked further and decided to enjoy happy hour in a bar with bean bags on the beach, they also had a bunch of iguanas looking for warmth on a wall. We enjoyed a few beers before heading back to the boat for dinner. I managed two helpings of Banana bread and chocolate sauce.
Parroquia Tomas de Berlanga (Santo Tomas), Cantón Isabela, Ecuador
We rolled through the swell last night as we moved from Genovese Island down to a midway point between Bartolomé and Santiago Island. Bartolomé Island is fairly hostile with a high point and a leaning pinnacle rock on the side of it. We hiked up the hill to the highest point where we could observe a great view across the islands and down to our docking point where we could see the round outline of a sunken volcano crater. This island is full of grey plants and lava cactus. There are small lizards that run around doing press ups as a means of communication.
Our snorkelling trip off Bartolomé is amazing, despite the barren land the shoreline is teaming with large colourful fish and shols of small fish. At one point a sea lion swam past me but the highlight is seeing the Galápagos penguins on the rocks and then swimming with them. They are so fast, like bullets in the water, as they dive and then surface energetically beside the group. Such a thrill seeing them bobbing closely and then circling round you without any concern.
Our snorkelling off Santiago is not as fruitful, the water is getting colder and despite swimming along the rocky shore, I only saw small sholes of fish. I decided to get out, only to then see the rest of the group excitedly spot sea turtles. Our guide said there will be plenty off Isabela Island, so I hope I get another chance.
Our final walk of the day is on Santiago Island, which has a massive lava field. I have never walked across lava, and it’s really crazy with shapes like lengths of rope, bubbles, material, all formed differently due to speed and cooling temperature variation. There are huge crickets jumping around but no other life on the lava field. A really cool experience which feels like you are on another planet.
As the sun came down on another memorable day we spotted huge Mantarays in front of the boat, to the side we then witnessed them jumping multiple times. With their flat shape, this looked like a pancake being tossed.
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Parroquia Tomas de Berlanga (Santo Tomas), Cantón Isabela, Ecuador
I slept pretty well last night, despite a choppy navigation to the only island fully north of the Equator, Genovese. This morning is cloudy but looking out at the long cliffs of the island with the bare trees sat on top, makes it just more mysterious looking.
We take the dingy to the beach and follow a path through the nests of Nazca (masked) boobies and Frigate birds. The chicks of the boobies are particularly cute bundles of fluffiness. Wandering down past mangroves with even more boobie nests, there are rock pools left from high tide, teaming with fish and Sally Lightfoot red crabs. There are hundreds of tiny crabs diving into the sand along the way, together with almost camouflaged black crabs sat on the rocks. A night heron is sat looking craggy and miserable as we stroll past.
On our return to the beach we don snorkelling gear and wade out to sea. There are lots of colourful fish playing in the shallows and we follow the rocks around to discover more. As we swim across the small bay to the rocks on the other side a cry of sharks goes up. The group gathers closer to observe about four sharks sat calmly on the bottom with a few big rays quietly hovering around them. I spot a white tip shark dart behind us, apparently they are harmless but decide to swim back to shore just to be safe.
After another good lunch we speed to Prince Phillips’s Steps which take us up the cliffs to the top of the island, here we find more Boobie and Frigate nests. The Boobies have their beaks open and are pushing air into their throats to keep cool, it looks like they are about attack but in reality none of the wildlife has seemed bothered by us. We step out to a barren lava field that is covered in birds, Petrols and Boobies all swooping overhead. As we walk on we are fortunate to not only see a Galápagos Owl but to see it eat it’s prey before flying off.
Our final snorkel of the day was near the cliffs and Prince Phillip’s Steps, jumping in from the dingy rather than the beach. This water is cooler and darker but we still see lots of fish playing around the rocks, perhaps bigger varieties. It was really exciting to have a sea lion swim past me and then spotting his friends sitting on a low rock just enjoying a siesta.
On our return to to boat there is hot chocolate and queso balls with honey. We get to meet the crew this evening before we settle in for the night and they navigate us to our next island.
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Parroquia Tomas de Berlanga (Santo Tomas), Cantón Isabela, Ecuador
We had a 4.30am pick up for our flight today. I didn’t really mind as it was the day we flew to the Galápagos Islands. We had our luggage checked to ensure we were not bringing seeds or fruit on the flight that could be accidentally introduced to the islands. On the plane about half way into the flight a young lad had a fit, it was terrifying at first because I thought it was a hostage or terrorism attack. Poor guy recovered with oxygen but looked wrecked as we landed and he was taken to an ambulance.
Oswaldo, our guide, met us at arrivals and we took a bus to the pontoon. We saw huge red crabs on the rocks called ‘Sally Lightfoot’, which may become my new photography obsession. Climbing aboard home for the next 10 days, we quickly unpack and orientate ourselves with the boat. We get a huge lunch and then start motoring to our first stop. We are joined by a group of Frigate birds hovering overhead.
Our first port Tortuga bay is a beautiful bay, picturesque sandy beach with torquoise waters. As we step onto the beach we can see more crabs and further on fat marine iguanas warming themselves on the rocks.
We can snorkel right from the beach and we quickly dive in to see the tropical fish. Whilst snorkelling we saw a small shark swim by and coming in I see a sea snake burrowing into the sand close to the beach.
Marine IguanaSally Lightfoot crabTurtle tracks to a nest
Our plan today was to do a self-guided walking tour of Old town Quito. We started walking towards the centre, round the El Ejido park (it’s closed as they build a underground bypass) and then to the huge Basilica. Quito seems lovely, bright blue sky looks over white washed colonial buildings. We walked through several of the main plazas and key points on the map before stopping for some really great coffee. A bit further on and we could see the angel on the cliff overlooking the city. Our final stroll was through Calle Rhonda, one of the oldest streets in Quito. We spot the bus terminal at the top and manage to figure out that one line could take us directly to the Mariscal area, a few blocks from our hotel. A short ride and it was only 25cents.
We had to get back at lunchtime to collect our laundry before they shut for the weekend, and had a few problems remembering where to find the Lavanderia today. Once we had our clean clothes we headed to our first stop on our GAdventures tour the Quito Hilton Colòn. Justin’s status managed to get us an upgrade, with super comfy beds and access to the executive lounge. The bar doesn’t open until 6pm so we decide to visit an art gallery a friend had recommended.
Guayasamin is a significant ecuadorian artist and he set up a foundation in his name so his house and remaining collection would stay together in Ecuador. We took a Uber up to a richer suburb where the house he built sits overlooking Quito and the Pichincha volcano. The house is full of the pre-Colombian and religious art he collected which surprised me.
Just down from his house is his ‘Chapel of man’. This houses his canvases which have a range of themes from a collection that is inspired by and a tribute to his mother, to more political based ones as protests against the Chilean dictatorship during which several of his friends died. You can see the Picasso influence and Cubism style in his work, most of it is quite haunting but I would love to have one of the coloured scenes of Quito he painted.
Tonight is the group meeting and I am slightly apprehensive after all my independent travel. There are two families, a couple of kiwis, a twitcher and a honeymooning couple amongst the group, with all of us being English speaking. It all feels a little awkward, first meeting so after being briefed on our early start tomorrow Justin and I head down to Plaza Foch for more tasty Ecuadorian food including Hornado, a shredded pork dish which had been highly recommended.
Urgh! Another early start and boxed breakfast as we bid goodbye to Peru. We have to fly from Cusco to Quito, via Lima. All is running smoothly until we try to land in Quito and a crosswind causes issues. We take off again as soon as the wheels touch the runway and roar back into the sky. With a few turns, some people start vomiting and by this point I am keen to land. We make it on the second try and despite being told I may be refused entry due to lack of proof of exit plans we are quickly through immigration and in Ecuador.
Unexpectedly there is a guide from Gadventures waiting to transfer us to our hotel. We are staying a night at a cheaper hotel around the corner, but happily accept the ride. I am genuinely pleasantly surprised at how tranquil and traffic free the drive into Quito is. It seems much greener than Peru, I have a good feeling about the country.
After check in we set off to find a laundry, a kind parking attendant shows us one about 4 blocks away, and then we take a stroll around the area pausing for a iced coffee at a bustling Plaza Foch. Dinner tonight is at a restaurant overlooking this plaza, I cannot believe the atmosphere as it is pumping louder than Ibiza!
