Guayaquil, Ecuador 🇪🇨 

After arriving last night on a uneventful bus, my budget hostel bed was surprisingly comfy. I have not heard many positive reviews of Guayaquil, but I was keen to get out and give it a chance. First stop Parque Bolivar which has the impressive cathedral on one side. My reason for visiting was the Parque wildlife – Iguanas! I found it strange to think that in the middle of this city they existed in a space no bigger than a block. Sure enough they were easy to spot, about 60cm log with a crested top just lying around. I laughed out loud when a gentleman pointed out two in a tall yucca tree. I’d never thought about Iguanas climbing trees. After too many pictures, I walked the near area looking at significant architecture before heading to the Malecon2000.

The Malecon2000 was a multimillion dollar investment that is essentially a riverside boardwalk with a few monuments to break it up. I stroll along acutely aware of the clammy temperature which was just making me sweat, I wasn’t even hungry enough to gain respite from McDonald’s aircon. I walked all the way along and hit Las Penas, a barrio that is more bohemian and is supposed to be more of the original city. I climbed all the steps up to Cerro Santa Ana and the lighthouse on top. I was a big ball of sweat by the top and could find no where open to sit in aircon for a few minutes. The views are great from the top but the cloud cover just makes the city look grey.

As I head back down there are a row of coffee shops, and I visit each one in turn just to ensure I pick the coldest. It is only early afternoon and I am struggling to work out what else I can see to fill the time before my flight tonight. I decide on the cinema, the IMAX has a classical concert being shown so I decide it will at least be cool. It is brilliant, 2 hours of three tenors called Il Volo, with Placido Domingo, really enjoyed it.

Flying from Guayaquil to Quito tonight, mainly because I can’t face another long bus ride. The airport is really close to the city and as I check in they tell me we are leaving early, never had that before. All goes smoothly and my pickup is waiting for me at Quito airport so I am neatly tucked in at my hostel by 11pm. 

Montañita, Ecuador 🇪🇨 

I felt compelled to post pictures of Montañita in the sun!  This changes everything, with people (including me) just hitting the beach.

I am staying here for the weekend, think the yoga is good for me and I don’t think there is enough in Guayaquil to put more than a day there.  I will catch the bus back down on Sunday afternoon.

…I have also discovered a Tropical cider made by the brewery, which is delicious!

Porto Lopez, Ecuador 🇪🇨 

It has been raining all night, so I hoped that maybe I would wake to blue skies. No such luck, the grey cloud cover remains which is a little depressing. I am off to Puerto Lopez today to venture off the coast whale watching. As part of their migration to the Caribbean to calf they pass close to the shore of Ecuador. So I am excited as I eat breakfast in the hostel. I have arranged it through the hostel, essentially I need to catch the public bus to Puerto Lopez where a guy called Don will meet me. It sounds slightly vague as I hop on the back of one of the hostel boys motorbikes to go down the road where we flag down the bus. It all goes smoothly and Don is waiting for me, taking a tuk tuk to the shore. The boat is not leaving right away and I get the chance to wander Puerto Lopez. It doesn’t take long, but watching the fisherman bring in the morning catch and prepare it for onward travel is entertaining, particularly with the Pelicans and Frigate birds wanting their share.

We set off in our boat, about 2 hours after I thought we would but this South American time. There are Pelicans lining the cliffs as we leave the bay and head out about 30minutes. We start looking around for whales and I climb upstairs for a higher vantage point. We spot some tails in the distance and then they come closer. The next hour is spent with me marvelling at these creatures, coupled with trying to get a decent shot. We see about 10 humpback whales and very close to the boat, they dived under and came up, seemed to be putting on a show for us.

We motored back to a bay where we could snorkel and as I didn’t bring my swimmers, I just dozed on the front of the boat. Once back at shore I discovered Don wasn’t around. I was impressed with my understanding when I asked for directions and managed to follow them back to the road. The bus was just pulling up and I hopped on. We wove our way back down the coast and I signalled my stop to successfully make it back to the Hostal. Yoga is at 5pm today, so I had plenty of time to unwind and then do the session. Treated myself to Sushi on the beach tonight with a tropical cider from the microbrewery next door. Shelly, a girl from Reading was behind the bar so we spent the evening talking about travelling and what British foods we missed. 

Montañita, Ecuador 🇪🇨 

Montañita is on the west coast of Ecuador and is considered a bit of a party town. I am at the Point at the end of the beach, so I can walk to the hub of activities but still sleep soundly. It is winter so not much sun but it is a beautiful wide beach and the water is surprisingly warm.  

I get into a nice little routine of waking early, playing a few scrabble moves against the family and then heading to breakfast. This is the best breakfast of the trip with options including French toast, fruit and eggs alongside homemade breads. I try to let this digest before 2hours of yoga and then hitting the hammock. I am reading lots and generally chilling all afternoon before deciding on dinner options. Near us, just off the beach is a Sushi and Thai place which usually wins and I spend the evening listening to the waves and sipping on a beer from the microbrewery next door…..

…..and then repeating.

Montañita, Ecuador 🇪🇨 

All packed, I eat a big breakfast and walk up to the bus station.  The usual hullabaloo ensures as people get on and off, before they move us all forward a row and we set off.  The trip to Guayaquil is just under 4hours and winds first up through El Cajas National Park.  It is great to see this space again and at one point we are above a cloud blanket which feels strange.  

We arrive early into Guayaquil, full of hope that I can catch a earlier bus, I ascend and descend the 3 floor building trying to find a ticket office.  I finally find it with 5minutes spare, rushing to the bus, it is late so I easily hop on and relax into the journey up the coast.  I have booked 5 nights at Montañita, 30metres from the beach at a place that offers yoga.  I feel it will be a good place to relax and stretch out my body a bit.  I am a bit tired and grouchy when I arrive so have a quick bite to eat and head to bed.

Cuenca, Ecuador 🇪🇨 

It is Sunday, even quieter in the city and I feel that after my active day yesterday I should venture up to the mirador Turi.  First stop is a coffee shop that Juliette recommended, only to find her in it so I spend a while exchanging travel tips for Colombia with her.  I then stroll down to the Pumapongo museum shop as I’ve decided to buy a small purse I saw there.  I haven’t gone mad on souvenirs due to space but a few things are nice.

I finally head up to the mirador, which provides a great sweeping view of the city.  There are lots of families up here just enjoying time on a Sunday and taking selfies. The steps back down are exhausting, but I am soon back on the main avenue with a heap of football supporters heading to the stadium for a home game.  I go to a artesianal market which is disappointing and then to the bus station.  It takes an hour of queuing to buy my ticket for tomorrow, I will go to Guayaquil which is a big hub before finding a bus to Montañita.

Cuenca, Ecuador 🇪🇨 

Very excited to be going to the El Cajas National Park today. It’s one of those places that isn’t on your radar but once you read about it, it seems to grow as a ‘must do’ destination and it is only 30mins outside of Cuenca.  

As we arrive in the park we start with an easy walk in lower cloud forest. The lake Llaviuco is calm with spectacular hills  surrounding it. It has many reeds around the shore leading up into cloud forest which is filled with moss covered trees. Our guide points out orchids and plants used by indigenous people as we go round.

The next stop is busy, but we can see across the Toreadora lake to moorland which will provide our quiet hike. The blue sky is coming through as we start this 3 hr route, past several glacier fed lakes taking it easy as we are at 4000masl. The land is interesting with lots of alpine flowers in the Andean tundra vegetation which is springy underfoot. We continue on and step into a Polylepis forest full of twisted Paper trees that form what is claimed to be ‘the highest forest in the world’.

The final section shows us Totoras and Patoquinuas lakes which continue on to provide Cuenca’s main drinking water. We climb up to where our van in waiting, pleased with ourselves and keen for lunch. We enjoy traditional potato soup with avocado and egg, followed by grilled trout. Arriving back in Cuenca late afternoon, I arrange to meet Juliette from the tour for dinner and drinks. Great end to a invigorating day!

Cuenca, Ecuador 🇪🇨 

I am struggling a little with Cuenca, it is a lovely city but it doesn’t have a heap of tourist attractions, well not ones that make my list. Today is a holiday, remembering the First cry of independence so it is even quieter here. I decide to wander in the opposite direction to yesterday, along Calle Larga to Pumapongo where there is supposed to be a good cultural museum and also Inca ruins. The museum is free and has a couple of rooms with colonial art. The ground floor has an exhibition on the history of Ecuadorian currency and the top floor showcases traditional costumes from each region. These vary greatly and my favourite exhibit has to be of tzantzas (shrunken heads) from the Shuar culture of the southern Oriente!

The archeological ruins are behind the museum and are supposed to represent part the old Incan city of Tomebamba. There are Incan terraces and a extensive garden at the bottom where I manage to find some shade and watch hummingbirds. Walking along to the pond there are some aviaries with local birds. I really enjoyed the area, more than I thought I would. Following the river back there are a few bars overlooking it where I enjoy a massive slice of passion fruit cheesecake whilst watching families enjoy the holiday. 

– Also discovered today that the Panama hat is made in Ecuador.  The Europeans named it as it was exported from the Panama Canal!

Cuenca, Ecuador 🇪🇨 

For the first day in Cuenca it has to be a walking tour! I travel a few blocks to the main Plaza where I am hoping a tour starts from. The guide shows up and explains that we will make 3 stops, as soon as he starts talking I start drifting off. I think he just wasn’t very engaging so I decide to stop after the first stop. We head into the new cathedral, the Inmaculada Concepción.  It was finished in 1988 and so is quite modern, a relaxing space without being too garish. The Cathedral has two towers that are squared off, the story is that when they put the statue of the Virgin Mary on top the facade cracked and they realised it would not take the weight of the intended tower spires, so left them off. The three blue tiled domes on top of the main section are shiny in the sun and a distinctive feature.

As I am now on my own I grab a map from the tourist office and head out on my own tour. I visit the Catedral Vieja or old cathedral as a contrast which is much smaller than the new one but pretty painted colours inside. The flower market is next, sat in a courtyard in front of the Carmen de la Asunción it is full of arrangements that are triangle shaped and supposedly handed down the generations.

I walk down Mariscal Sucre to San Sebastián square and church, Cuenca is a picturesque colonial city with a lot of churches.  It’s a good long walk so I finish the day with a craft beer and crunchy Thai noodles. 

Cuenca, Ecuador 🇪🇨 

Time to move, and whilst I have relaxed in Baños I am keen to find somewhere to explore so I have booked a bus to Cuenca. I climb onboard what looks to be a local bus and realise that the next 7 hours are going to be bumpy. And there is no toilet…

Whilst the trip is entertaining with various local people hopping on and off (often whilst the bus is moving) the scenery is stunning. I love the colours of the landscape and the patchwork hills with different crops. We also get to stop twice for the bathroom so that was a relief.

It is early evening by the time we arrive and despite sitting down all day, I am fit for nothing. I find a tasty restaurant nearby and then tuck myself in for the night.