Medellin, Colombia 🇨🇴 

Walking tour! And the Real City tour in Medellin is supposed to be one of the best, I was up first (and I didn’t have a hangover) and met Helen for breakfast. Manuel finally sorted himself out and we raced down the hill to the metro and our tour meeting point. 

Our first stop was the Old railway station and from there to the Square of lights. We had seen these tall needle lights yesterday but today we learnt about how they represented hope after the government regenerated the area which was one of the worst in the city previously. The two historic buildings were renevated, including the Carré building which is now government offices.  

Medellin is a huge textile producer, particularly jeans and the grand Placacio National now houses a market for such goods to purchase. Veracruz church is one of the city’s oldest, built in 1682. This is also the area to pick up a lady by the hour which seems strange.

A whizz through Botero square gave us several voluptuous sculptures by Botero, Medellin’s favourite artist, each donated and worth about $2.2m each. We went on to see Berrio park and site of several murals showing the history of the city. Final stops were the seedier Bolivar park, the Cathedral and finally San Antonio park. San Antonio park has two bird Botero sculptures, the first blown up by a bomb that killed 22 people at a gathering and the second donated by the artist post the incident.

It was a fantastic tour which covered politics, Pablo Escobar, today’s challenges and previous conflicts. Our guide Juan had himself struggled personally with 6 of his schoolmates being shot as they played together at 14 and two of his uncles kidnapped for ransom. A really insightful tour and great way to understand more about Medellin.

Helen & Manual left for Jardin after the tour and I went and explored the smaller shops in the area. I had a lovely Italian tonight with half a dozen of the guys from Botanico in Bogotá, lovely to catch up on their adventures.

Medellin, Colombia 🇨🇴 

I still managed to wake up early and Helen and Manuel were already at breakfast. We purposely stayed at the same hostel this time and it was lovely to see them again. After a leisurely breakfast we set off to walk some of the city. Our base in El Poblado is very safe but with all the bars and restaurants it feels a little touristy. We head down the hill to the Museum of Modern Art which is in a funky building and has a few interesting exhibits. My favourites are the vibrant watercolours by Debora Arrango and also a giant structure filled with cymbals that you can bash.

Next stop, I pushed for The Parque de Los Pies Descalzos, or barefoot park as walking barefoot sounded cool. It has huge bamboo, a sand area, and an area with water fountains but wasn’t as interesting as I hoped. On the positive side we walked through some interesting areas, including the palace of justice and Square of Lights.

We walked through a big area of street markets, Botero Plaza and also to a very dodgy park that Manuel wanted to see. Several ladies made a point of telling us to hold onto our things, so Helen and I kept the pace up. Our final stop was the Museum of Memories, dedicated to remembering the victims of conflict. I would have liked to have learned more about the conflicts themselves, but the museum was okay.  

We Taxi’d back to the hostel as we fancied the Sushi happy hour next door. However, the hostel guy said it was terrible so we walked a few streets and found a decent one. Tim, Claire and Amy joined us as we ate a massive sushi boat, it was really tasty. The heavens opened as we ate so we stayed for a few extra beers. Time went on, so we decided to dash for it through the rain to another bar. This one was busy, but a few beers and we forget the rain.  I made it home just before midnight whilst the others carried on.

Barichara, Colombia 🇨🇴 

San Gill seems really busy as I walk through town, everyone is bustling around and it’s a Sunday.  I find the local bus terminal after a few wrong moves and buy a ticket for Barichara which is about 45minutes away.  Barichara is billed as Colombia’s prettiest town and on arrival I can see the appeal. The town is surprisingly calm and peaceful, with the picturesque cobble-stone streets leading to lush green vistas. The houses are all colonial with uneven tiles adding to the charm. Whilst I was keen to see the town, a friend had recommended the Camino Real walk that takes an easy path to the neighbouring village of Guane. 

The trail was originally made by the indigenous Guane people and then used by the Spanish conquistadores. In 1900s it was restored by the German George von Lenguerke to be the stone laid path you see today. The walk is a easy 2hrs and it was great to see stunning views out over the Colombian countryside the whole way.  There were geckos and crickets darting around the path and  several birds that appeared along the way. It was a little hot in the midday heat and I bumped into the Belgium group I met paragliding about half way in which was a coincidence.  

It was great to reach the smaller town of Guane and get a bottle of cold water out of the heat. The Belgians were at the square in the village so I joined them in the jeep back to Barichara, with one of the craziest drivers I have experienced yet.  I wanted to see the cemetery in Barichara as it’s meant to be good but it was closed (on a Sunday!). I had a quick bite to eat and then caught the bus back to San Gil.

Chicamocha Canyon, Colombia 🇨🇴 

Today is the day that I paraglide for the first time. I am slightly apprehensive but mainly excited as I am picked up by the tour company. We are headed to the Chicamocha Canyon which is the second biggest canyon in the world and just over an hour from San Gil. As we arrive, my overwhelming feeling is that we are really high up. We are at 1700masl and the river winds its way around our site along way below. It is painful waiting my turn. Due to the conditions and that the thermals are getting stronger it is lightest first, so I am middle of the pack. We receive a safety briefing and then the group starts taking off, it kind of looks easy, to be fair the pilot behind does all the work.

My turn comes and my heart is starting to beat, the Shute goes up and we run for the cliff. It only takes about 5 steps before I can’t touch the ground and we are soaring up. Settled in my seat it all just feels really calm as we move with the thermals along the mountains. At 2000masl we enter clouds before swinging back down and gliding along the ridge. I can see for miles into the national park and manage to take a few pictures of the vista.

All too soon it’s time to land and after 45minutes in the air we swoop back down to the same landing site and make contact with the ground quite gracefully, at least it felt smooth. Once we were done it was back to watching others take their turns, apprehension turning to exhilaration for everyone.

San Gil, Colombia 🇨🇴 

My journey from Sogamoso to San Gil yesterday was advertised as 5hrs but after stops I arrived in the dark after 2 extra hours. I feel the Colombians are not as punctual on buses as the rest of the countries I have experienced. I arrive in San Gil to a brand new hostel and a nice 20degrees which feels fabulous.

It is pouring with rain when I wake up, I wonder if it is the tail of the hurricane that has battered the Caribbean.  I am not pushed for time here so I settle into the hammock in my room and catch up on this blog. I spot Lesley is online and give her a call, just checking she is excited about being in Colombia in less than 2 weeks, she is! The rain eases and I set off to explore the town. The church frames the traditional plaza at the centre of town and it’s a fairly regular town. I walk along the river picking up an empanada and a sweet pastry from a bakery for lunch before entering Parque Gallineral

This is a beautiful park with huge trees sporting Barbas de viejo or Grandad’s beard which makes the area seem more mysterious. I enjoy a couple of hours inside, enjoying the tropical flowers, parrots and even spot a red squirrel. It is a really nice space on the edge of town.

Sogamoso, Colombia 🇨🇴 

The plan is to hike today with a group from the hostel, quite the international group with Spanish, Dutch, French and Colombian amongst us. It was nice to follow someone for a change as we caught a taxi and then a bus to the start of our hike. The scenery on the journey is stunning as we see Lake Tota and then wind down to tropical jungle type vegetation.

Our hike begins as a stroll along a rough path past a couple farms and over a few hand made bridges. It then starts the ascent, which is tough in the humidity. The vegetation is so green and huge it is just beautiful despite the building sweat and thigh burn. The Candelas waterfall which is fed by the Cusiana River is waiting for us about two hours in, it is the second highest in Colombia but we haven’t seen a soul and when we arrive we have the place to ourselves. This waterfall is immense, forget the height it is the sheer volume of water that is being pumped from the top that is so impressive. We eat our lunch here, Claire does some yoga poses for her blog and we leave slightly wetter than we arrived.  

The walk out is easy despite me slipping on a rock, we are out in an hour and a half. We get back to the road and have to wait 45mins for a bus. When one comes there are only 3 seats, so the boys heroically opt to sit on the floor, which looks uncomfortable for an hour and a half. Once back we shower and then I cook for the first time in months. It turns out okay and we are all starving so I think they would have eaten anything.

Sogamoso, Colombia 🇨🇴 

After successfully catching two local buses yesterday, and generally feeling very safe and happy about being in the countryside I woke up a little grouchy and out of sorts, a cold shower doesn’t help. I genuinely don’t feel like doing much today and after a decent breakfast of freshly laid eggs, I settle down to finish my book and a bit of research on my American trip. Finca San Pedro is a old house with beautiful gardens and it’s a lovely place to chill out when the sun shines but it keeps clouding over, so at lunchtime I decide to catch a bus to Lago Tota. 

I brave myself with some practiced Spanish phrases and flag down a bus heading in that direction. I ask to be let off at Rancho Totas, which has been recommended for its trout and lake views. Lake Tota is the largest lake in Colombia and is set at 3015masl. It is a beautiful spot and the food is exceptional, so it feels like a great place for a glass of white wine and a leisurely afternoon. I finish up and walk down to the lake edge, it looks crystal clear and very tranquil. 

Clambering back up to the road I flag down my return bus and even manage to get it to stop outside the Finca with some help from a woman sat next to me. The Finca is still cold so I take a warmer shower before sitting in the main room and chatting to the other guests. A few of us are up for a hike tomorrow so we plan our route and agree to meet early tomorrow morning.

Villa de Leyva, Colombia 🇨🇴 

I decide I need a decent breakfast this morning before my bike ride. At the cafe I am suggested Cazuela Boyacens which is a typical dish, I do need to eat more local dishes so I go for it. The dish turns out to be eggs poached in warm milk which then has bread sat in it. On a positive this is the closest I have come to poached eggs in 8 months but otherwise it is just unpleasant. I eat enough to sustain the energy for the ride and then set off for the bike shop.

They are really thorough in my directions and I set off confidently into the countryside. I am still unfit as I wheeze up the hill and then down to an Orchid farm. The family are so friendly and lovingly show me all their orchids, even pulling some pods off for me to grow. They have lots of geese and crested ducks. Behind the farm is a blue pool. The area has lots of these due to mineral content, useless for irrigation but they look pretty.  

Next stop is a Rock garden or art, this lady was a bit more hippy and loved showing me the labyrinth that represented a route to give thanks to your mother’s uterus…wasn’t keen to try it. The balancing rocks were nice and the place had a good vantage point to see surrounding hills. My cycling seemed to be getting easier as I eased myself into my next stop and promptly shoved the peddle into my shin. 

El Fossil is a museum built around a Kranosaurous skeleton found in 1977. I have never seen this sea dwelling dinasour before and the theory is that it beached itself before being encased in mud and preserved. This area is notorious for fossils and when this one was discovered by a farmer the locals decide to preserve it where it was found, building the museum around it. I think that is really cool and loved seeing this large creature laying where it has for years.

I push on, confidently taking the longer loop back to town passing other attractions but keen to keep cycling. I return safely in about 3 hours and I’ve covered 15km, which I have enjoyed.

I walk back past the main plaza where families are flying kites, so cool just watching old and young enjoy this activity. I am waylaid by Pizza and follow it with a delicious mango and mint ice cream.  I spend the evening enjoying a few Netflix episodes of Elementary.

Villa de Leyva, Colombia 🇨🇴 

Villa de Leyva is a very pretty town, streets laid with massive cobblestones and one of the largest main plazas in South America. It is a town that has been used in movies and terra novellas over the past decade, making it popular for weekend breaks from Bogotá. First stop for me is breakfast as I have unusually failed to book a hostel that provides it. I stop in a outdoor courtyard and enjoy a coffee and omelette before pushing on to the top of the village. 

 I am starting to wonder what I am going to do tomorrow as I will have walked the whole town by 2pm, despite the awkward cobblestones. Picturesque they may be but walking on them requires concentration to ensure you don’t twist your ankle. I stop at a bike shop and set up bike rental for tomorrow, hoping that the surrounding countryside will be pretty and also safe. On my way back through town I stop at Museo Luis Alberto Acuña

The gallery showcases the artist’s canvases and sculptures along with his collection of art.  I quite like his style, particularly the black and white pictures featuring skulls.  

I have to say the town seems to have some great restaurants but I settle on one that does a BBQ so I can enjoy fabulous pulled pork and a refreshing Lychee mojito.