Providencia, Chile

Had a fantastic start to the day as my stomach cleared – hallelujah!!! the relief!!! I had suggested that Justin and Suzie took the free tour that I did when I arrived so they set off for 10am start. I had worked out that the changing of the guard at la Moneda, presidential palace was today so hopped on the metro down there and missed it by a couple of minutes! Ah, well it was lovely to be downtown on a Sunday morning watching the city wake up as I strolled back to Bellavista. I went to Pablo Neruda Santiago house, La Chascona. This is the same Nobel prize winning poet i referenced in Valparaiso when I visited Le Sebastiana. His Santiago home was created initially for his mistress, Matilda, but he eventually moved in with her. This house was also where his wake was held, despite the vandalism by military and his funeral supported by thousands again despite Pinochet forbidding mass groups of people. Great place to visit. We lunched on savoury waffles, and a ice pop-delicious and probably the first food I had enjoyed for a couple of days. Suzie had heard of a nice park up in one of the nicer suburbs, as the temperature was hitting the 30’s we elected for the metro. Bicentennial Park is lovely, needs a bit more maturing but it was great to crash out under a palm tree again whilst Suzie explored every inch from sculptures to flamingos. On the way back we thought to catch the Gondola to San Cristobal to watch sunset before heading back to the hotel, it turned out to be amazing but the 2 hour queue put Justin off. We watched the sun setting as we hiked down the hill seeing some great colours. Dinner was round the corner, where we finally ate about 10pm and toasted my birthday!

Santiago, Chile

We landed on time at 7.30am, after what seemed too brief a sleep, we were back in Santiago and the familiar bus/metro route into the centre. We were staying in Bellavista this time, slightly north of the river but still central. The hostel let us store our bags and have breakfast whilst we waited for Suzie to arrive from London. She found us in Starbucks around midday and we spent a good few hours showing her the close sights, eating Empañadas and ice cream. Unfortunately my stomach problems persisted so I retired early to snooze and watch iplayer downloads whilst Suzie and Justin enjoyed dinner and more of Santiago.

Hanga Roa, Chile

Today was our last day on Easter Island and we had booked a full day tour that took in significant sites on the south coast. Roared back to town on the quad, before grabbing coffee and hopping on the bus with Kia Koe tours. Our guide, Ana was full of information so what largely follows is her overview. When Europeans arrived in the 1800s they introduced diseases which wiped out a lot of the population. The population got down to a couple of hundred and unfortunately the only people who knew how to decipher their writing (some form of hieroglyphics) died as well. With that all their history was lost and speculation remains. At the first site Vaihu (with toppled Moai) we learnt that the Moai would be purchased as guardians or represent kings that watched over the village. They were all carved from the quarry at Rano Raraku but the eyes (blue stone) and the red hats came from separate parts of the island. The hat is called a pukao and apparently they were very late additions to the Moai (the heads). They are made of different rock which is red in colour. No one knows why they were added, it could be to symbolise strength and power. Or as only a few were thought to have them it could be used to signify the most important Moai. Or it could simply be to symbolise hair – some form of top knot. Next stop was Akahanga and a group of toppled moai. We learnt more about how the platforms had decorative magnetic roundish stones that would have been mirrored in the front of the tribal leader/kings house within the village, like a patio. One of the most famous groups is at Tongariki, fifteen upright Moai that were restored with support from the Japanese. These would have overlooked a large settlement and offered protection to its people. The different sizes would have been based on what the village could afford at the time, the more food you had the bigger the Moai you purchased. The largest in this standing set weighed in at over 80 tonnes -incredible how they positioned! The main highlight of the trip was definitely Rano Raraku. This is the site of the main quarry, scans made of the site have estimated over 550 unfinished Moai. These include one that would have been over 10m had it been completed and also a later one that is unusual in that he is kneeling. Ana explained that they used basalt tools with water to first carve the Moai features and then somehow they were carved out of the main rock. We spent a good hour exploring the site and getting plenty of head shots! A quick hike up to the crater lake followed by a chicken and rice lunch cemented this place as one of the best I have been. Next stop was Te Pito Kura, a different spot where we heard more about village life. They only cooked chicken on auspicious occasions so the chicken coup was rocks built up so only a chicken could get in and out, this prevented theft. We were also shown a perfectly round stone which now sits with four others showing compass directions but it’s source and purpose is a mystery. We finished at Anakena once more, a lazy sleep under palm trees whilst gazing at that beautiful beach was the perfect end. Our flight back to Santiago was at midnight so after a chill and shower at the hostal we headed to the airport. On check in we were told that they had closed the back row of seats, so had upgraded us to the front. Business class flat bed was much appreciated, although we declined food in favour of sleep for the 5 hour flight.

Hanga Roa, Chile

Hurrah! Felt much better today and set out on a quad bike. A bike that clearly stated no passengers, not to go on roads and no insurance (none on the island). With a bit of a splutter we went towards the airport to pick up our National park permit (about £60 for 5 days), we then set off hunting Moai. We found our first on the south west tip at Vinapu, where he had fallen but face up for us to smile at! We screamed through town to the dramatic north coast and up to Hanga Kio’e which is a single upright Moai. The heavens opened as we searched for site of Ana Kakenga, we knew it was a cave but it was only the park ranger whistling at us and pointing that made us re-evaluate the foot wide gap in the earth to our left. It took some scrambling and crouching to get into a dark tunnel that opened out to standing. In front of us was a vista of the Pacific sea as we were stood in the cliff face. The caves were made thousands of years ago as lava erupted from a volcano. We emerged wet and filthy to a sunny sky. Back on the quad we took a long route to Ahu Akivi. These Maoi are the only ones mounted to face the sea rather inland. It is said that they are navigators or represent the first explorers and thus look out rather than facing/protecting a village. Fortunately we got lost on our way and ended up back in Hanga Roa, fortuitous because another driver spotted our flat tyre and we could change the quad for another one. We set off on the main road to cross the island up to the north east. Anakena is said to be the site where first islanders landed, there are two Moai sites here. A solo man and then a group on a mount in front of the beach. The group are in relatively good condition as they spent many years covered in sand before their discovery. What I cannot do justice to in words is the whole picture, the palm trees led us down to the Moai where they stood under a perfect blue sky, in front of a white sandy beach. A few photos and then we dived into the ocean to wash off our bike grime- bliss, cool crystal waters. After a couple of hours dozing under the palm trees we headed back to Hanga Roa, where we ate on the seafront watching surfers riding the waves as the sunset. Blew the budget on a great day!

Hanga Roa, Chile

Horrible night with sickness for both of us, thank goodness we have a private bathroom. I lay in my bed recovering till the afternoon totally frustrated to be in such a unique location but not leave the bathroom. Justin, bless him, managed to get out to get water and even lined up excursions for us for the next two days- let’s hope we are fit. Broke out late afternoon, both feeling weak but much better. Strolled to see my first Maoi, a row of four called Ahu vai uri and then along the magnificent Pacific coastline

Santiago, Chile

We had our last breakfast with our favourite waiter, smiley happy guy. Headed out to see the presidential palace (La Moneda Palace) and the changing of the guards. Unfortunately we got the wrong day based on the alternating days of the display. Walked up to the Belle Artes museum which is a cool central hall, very European in its architecture, art was a little disappointing though. We also popped into the visual arts museum which was more interesting in its installations, if not at times just strange. We then strolled down to Bella Italia the Italian quarter for a wander as Santiago heated up, we enjoyed refreshing gelato – think mine was basil and lime! Headed out to the airport with a bit of intrepidation as our Hostel for that night was not responding to emails etc. Lovely flight to Easter Island or Isle de Pascua as it is called locally, with a cheeky upgrade surprise for my birthday. Next 12 hours proved difficult as whilst the hostel all turned out fine, we both have gone down with what we think is food poisoning- probably those clams!

Santiago, Chile

Got started earlier today as we wanted to get to the top of Cerro San Cristobal, the cable car was not operating so we planned the short hike up before it got too hot. Fairly steep to start with and I was fairly worried when I saw the sign for toilets 370km to go…. clearly a misprint as we found some at the top! Great views of Santiago, no sign of the Andes that wrap round the city due to smog. I didn’t like to complain as the forest fires raging the coast are the worst in Chilean history, just been declared a state of emergency. Strolled back through hip Bellavista where we are staying next time in Santiago and checked out area. Took Justin to the famous Mercado Central where we tried crab & cheese gratin and clams topped with cheese. I’ve decided I don’t like clams, not even cheese can fix them, but the gratin was delicious. Quick dip in the pool, we then rounded off the day with hotdog and helados.

Santiago, Chile

Sombre morning at the museum of memories. This excellent museum presented a very factual account of the dictatorship from 1973-1989 including accounts of torture, murder and terror. It really brought to life several periods where basic human rights violations were common and over 40,000 people died. I can’t imagine living here during this time, which as a period of history wasn’t that long ago. I am also surprised that it wasn’t something I was aware of growing up, despite studying 20th century history. Enjoyed sedate pace for the rest of the day, swim in the pool and pizza.

Santiago, Chile

Interesting night spent with my stomach seemingly adjusting to Chilean ways, it was too hot and therefore did not feel my best heading down to the bus station. Purchased a new bus ticket and even managed to indicate I wanted a window seat….got on to find I had the window, the whole front on the top deck! Great place to be with sun streaming in as we wound round roads and my stomach tried to stay put. My reward for this and a short metro trip was the Crown Plaza, air conditioned room with free drinks and snack (courtesy of Justin’s hotel points). This was bliss. Justin arrived after a long, chaotic immigration session to find me checked in and snoozing on my comfy (4 pillow) bed. We went on a amble around the key points in the centre, grabbed an ice cream and spent an hour or two in the cool shade of Forestal park. Dinner was in a great restaurant where Justin also enjoyed a Pisco cocktail (he crashed by 10pm).

Viña del Mar, Chile

Amazing avocado on bread for breakfast with some fruit! Caught my first Uber down to Sotomayor and then on the light rail metro to Vina del Mar. I had high hopes for this beach edge town where the wealthy Santiago people spend their weekends in the summer. Fun hostal and friendly people, good to cool my feet in the Pacific Ocean but a bit crowded and high rise buildings make it feel like parts of Spanish coast. Realised I have lost my bus ticket back to Santiago, need to spend another £3.