Valparaíso, Chile

Woke up to mist this morning, after breakfasting on fresh bread & jams I set off in warmer clothes to Pablo Neruda’s house here in Valparaiso. Enjoyed a couple of hours roaming around the eclectic collections, interesting history to the pieces particularly those in the bar. The toilet off the bar has a fratwork door – only the most daring of guests would use. Strolled down the hill, looking at more graffiti and spotted the huge Mapuche mural on the side of a tall building, by this time the mist had made way for sun and I was sweltering. I caught a collective back up the hill for a shower and lighter clothes. I met Karen for one of the Valparaiso arts festival shows (very weird, think it was a dance about the farmed fish issues), enjoyed a stroll through Cemetery number 2 and finished dinner with a cold beer.i

Valparaíso, Chile

Took a free tour, great information and interaction for 3 hours. Started in the main square, Plaza Sotomayor before heading to Plaza Echaurren. There is a red line of bricks and subsequent markings that show where the shoreline was originally and how it has moved with land filling. Learnt about different classes and how the wealth was lost from stopping ships with the opening of the Panama Canel. Took the bus up to near where I am staying, Plaza Bismarck. Bus drivers earn based on passengers so they speed round bends to pick as many up as possible! Apparently the ticket gives you insurance if the bus is in an accident…. Saw the Cemetery, the former jail and also great graffiti on the way back down, before hopping on the trolley back to Serrano street. Met a lovely lady on the tour, Karen, so enjoyed a leisurely late lunch with her the shade before sitting on a rooftop to enjoy more of the great views of Valparaiso!

Valparaíso, Chile

Today I headed west to the colourful seaside port of Valparaiso. This meant my first ride on a Chilean bus (so much better than National Express!) and first time getting a collective (shared taxi). It has all gone relatively smoothly, with the use of the amazing google translate I even booked the bus back on Saturday. First impressions are good, lots of colourful houses, funicular railways and hills. The best bit is that it is at least 5 degrees cooler than Santiago!

Santiago, Chile

Temperatures in Santiago hit 33degrees today… Found a great free tour on alternative sights, Tips4tours. Highlights were the fish market, central market and the central cemetery. It was a really interesting 4 hours that showed more of the working class areas of Santiago. I have to confess mixing with English speaking travellers was also relaxing. Spent another 3 hours trying to get my Chilean SIM card to work, with Peter helping from UK…gave up.

Santiago, Chile

After landing from my overnight flight, it was good just to get here and feel like I could start on my South American adventure. Immigration was straightforward and I quickly hopped onto the Centropuerto bus into town (£2), this took me part of the way until I had to get the metro a bit further in. My pigeon Spanish and gestures got me a BIP card, only figuring out what I had bought when I asked the guy at the hostel to translate the receipt – but I bought the right ticket! Poker hostel is home for 2 nights, nice enough in the Barrio Lastarria area, but I am a little overwhelmed by knowing I won’t be home for ages. This will be an epic trip but tonight just feeling like I am going to miss home (and my bed!).

London, United Kingdom

After the stressing of packing into my little bag (weighing in at 17kg, and there is nothing in it!) and saying goodbye to friends, it came as a relief to arrive at Heathrow. I think I was fairly quiet all the way up, a sure sign of nervous tension but I confidently strode up to Check in ready to get rid of my bag and head to lounge access (curtesy of Mr Geldof). The lovely lady kindly informed me that I needed a Chilean visa! Check on government website showed I didn’t, as long as I left the country within 90 days. That was fine but I needed proof of onward travel to prove exit within that timeframe. I tried to get a bus ticket that I would use later to enter Argentina to no avail, so I bought a refundable Latam Ticket to Buenos Aires. That got me through the door, bit more tense but managed to scoop a G&T in the lounge before boarding to calm myself down. Good flight to Atlanta with my row empty and red wine on tap…. I landed safely in Atlanta with 2.5 hours to wait for next flight. Seems ok until you take 1.5 hours in immigration queue, 20mins on bag check (and I didn’t have one) and then have to plead your way through the security line by hopping in front of passengers. Made the flight and even scored a free cookie from the deli as I obviously was stressed – lovely lady. Flight left on time, sat next to Linda who is off cruising down the coast and up Argentina, sounds less stressful!

Devon, United Kingdom

Well it was cold but bright on Dartmoor….does this count as training? Probably not, but great to be on the moors on such a day!