Buenos Aires, Argentina

Today feels a little strange, I set an alarm for this morning had breakfast planned and had to be in school for 9am. Part of me likes the fact I have committed to a routine for the next few weeks, not sure why! After the last week, clean clothes are few so I have a bag ready to drop into a laundrette (lavanderia) for washing on the way to class. Breakfast in my little studio is avocado and cream cheese on toast washed down with orange juice and coffee. Route is a fairly short walk to class, around 20mins and I arrive in time for induction. Six of us in the class, a Aussie guy, a kiwi couple and two Dutch guys on a internship all friendly. Our tutor is Julian and he seems fine, laughs a bit particularly at the Dutch pronunciation which actually might be worse than mine. We cover loads, the alphabet, greetings, introductions, where we are from/live and by the end of four hours I have a headache but it’s been a good start. Head home after class and eat pasta, seem to be starving for a change….spoke to Justin and Jules & Pete late afternoon which was nice. Take a late afternoon stroll over to the parks near recolata via a heladeria (Volta) to see the Floralis Genérica which is a sculpture of a massive flower made of steel and aluminum designed by the Argentine architect Eduardo Catalano. Catalano once said that the flower “is a synthesis of all the flowers and, at the same time, a hope reborn every day at opening”. The sculpture was designed to move, closing its petals in the evening and opening them in the morning. My plan was to stay until sunset to watch it close, but a couple of guys started asking me about Brexit and then the ‘1982’ war, felt a little uncomfortable so I decided to make my way back down Avenida Libertad to home.

Buenos Aires, Argentina

Sunday started with a lie in, still have a bit of the head cold I have had for the past few days and managed a good 10hours sleep. Wake up in my shiney and bright studio, strange not to see Justin already awake and tapping on the iPad waiting for me to wake up. It is cloudy today for a change, not cold but a little gloomy. Facebook is covered with stories of people enjoying the sun in England, so at least i know where it is! It is Mother’s Day today, so I video chat with the family. They all seem on fine form, with mum enjoying the Malbec wine I gave her with her roast. Today’s plan is to do nothing but I figure whilst I am here for a month, I should try and get out to see different parts of the city. I walk down to Plaza Italia and along the side of the zoo (another day perhaps) down to the major road Avenida del Libertador to Parque de 3 Febrero. This park it quite traditionally laid out and would have been the aristocracy’s old stomping ground. On Sundays they close the road around it to vehicles and so it is a great place to people watch. Joggers, rollerblading, cyclists and just people walking, it seems to be quite the weekend social activity. There is a rose garden at the heart of it called Rosedal, I wasn’t sure on time of year versus blooms but it was lovely. Bigger than I thought and lots of varieties planted in sections to create blocks of colour, and great scent. My landlord called me about dropping off kitchen stuff so I wandered back to meet him, I now have a chopping board, 2 knives, bowl and stirring utensils. I went back out in search of a notebook for school tomorrow and found a massive Carrefour hypermarket. Lost about an hour in there and the shopping mall just browsing differences to U.K. ranges, particularly the section of dulce de leche, bought a frying pan to to complete my kitchen. 25degrees & cloudy, sun shone from 3pm

Buenos Aires, Argentina

I always knew today would be strange. We talked about how long ago those first few days in Santiago seem, but that two months have flown by in a packed adventure. It is time to go our separate ways as Justin flys to London from Brazil and I head back down to Buenos Aires. I feel quite emotional about saying goodbye, I am sure I will be fine but it is easier when you are travelling with someone who knows you and who helps out. Feels like half the stress and more joy to share, but anyway no need to be sentimental- this is just another chapter in my adventure. After a goodbye hug I catch the shuttle to the airport, in line I chat to a couple of Canadians that have done a week- El Calafate, BA, Iguazu..crazy fast, makes me grateful for my extended time off. The guy at Aerolineas is having nothing of my charms and charges me for being over 15kg, we have got away with it on 3 flights so it is not bad going but still sucks, that whole £9. Flight is fast, I have collected my bag and am in a taxi before it was due to land. This makes me early to check into the flat but after a short wait in sunshine Marina arrives to let me in. It looks exactly as the pictures, unfortunately it overlooks a swanky pool I don’t have access to but if we ignore that, it is clean and light studio so hopefully will be a good base. There are not any kitchen utensils for cooking or hairdryer, so on querying with the landlord he was good and has promised to drop some in tomorrow. I have a good look around the neighbourhood, find a few supermarkets and pick up essentials together with veggie pasta ingredients. I have been slightly short on veggies lately and currently have a cold so pack my basket with fruit and orange juice. Feels really good to unpack, I have vowed to pack less when I leave Buenos Aires but we will see how that goes….

Puerto Iguazú, Argentina

Today was unplanned, we didn’t feel that a trip back to the park would be worthwhile so we looked for other options. A 25minute stroll up the road brought us to a animal rescue centre but the English speaking guided tour was 2 hours away so we scrapped that plan. The attendant told us we could get a bus back to town from a stop outside for 17 pesos, we waited dubiously but sure enough a bus picked us up and then wound its way through residential streets to town. It was heading to the 3 frontiers point, so we figured we could stay on to see that and then walk back from town. The point isn’t that exciting but you can see Paraguay and Brazil from this point in Argentina so it’s pretty cool to see. We walked back through town, earning a ice cream on the way before getting back to the hotel. I then figured it was just perfect time for a swim and pool lazing in the last of the sun. Final night for Justin so a large steak and bottle of wine is enjoyed to celebrate a great adventure.

Iguazú, Argentina

Having figured out the buses to Brazil, the ones to the Argentinian park followed the same road out of town so we knew where to catch the bus near the hotel. The park is only 15km from town so an easy trip to the entrance. It is very different to the Brazilian entrance, no computer ticket machines or credit cards, it is also about a third more at 500 pesos (£25). We had figured on spending 2 days in this park as there are more trails to hike around, but we were caught out a little with seeing 3 of the trails closed (we later learnt that a puma had been spotted, and in fact the previous week the whole park had been shut for 2 days). We decided to book a boat tour, Justin was keen to do an adrenaline type ride so we booked a jeep trip/boat ride adventure for mid afternoon. The next task was to stand in line for about 45minutes in the sun waiting for the little train to take you up to the waterfalls, made worse by the trail up being closed this wait was frustrating and the train really slow. We got off at the furthest stop, and walked about 1km to the Devils throat. This is essentially the top of the waterfalls at the part that curves round so you really feel within it. The upper river was all calm as you crossed each metal walkway so you are not really prepared for the pressure and volume that you see tumbling over the edge about a metre from your feet. Truly amazing position, never a layout I can see passing health and safety in Britain. Unbelievably time has flown past so after a couple of empanadas (which I eat standing up to thwart the Coatis that seem intent on stealing food) it is time for our Adventure tour. Some people are changing into swimmers which concerns me slightly, but I have quick drying stuff on so I hope I will be ok. We clamber into the back of a pick up truck and travel down a jungle trail. The guide points out a few trees and gives background to the area, but I am fascinated by the size of the spiderwebs overhanging the trail and the size of spiders…. we get off and take the steps down to the lower river, the people we pass on the return don’t look too wet. Handed a life jacket and dry bag we get onto the boat, I pick near front seats and kindly give Justin the seat nearest the edge and potential wettest spot. We cruise nicely up the river, although going up rapids in a tin boat feels a little perilous. We watch another boat getting wet before turning and moving to other parts to look at another section of the falls. I am slightly disappointed we are not getting wet and wondered if we booked the wrong tour before spotting the crew putting on waterproofs. They then drove us into the falls, I kid you not, I could not keep my eyes open to see the water volume was pounding that violently, we were right underneath before the boat was twisted to ensure the other side felt the same rush. It made you kiddy, a lot of fun and laughs as we can out into the sun and powered back. They then turned us back up river to do it all again under the first larger section we had viewed. Thank goodness I put my phone away, not a inch of me is dry but both Justin and are are beaming from ear to ear. The posh guy behind us proclaimed it as “magnificently fun’ which summed it up. We squelched our way back to the start and set off on the Upper trail walkways to walk along the top of the falls and dry out a bit. These walkways showed off some of the larger falls including ‘Salta Chico’ which is a great name. Less people around now in the late afternoon, so more relaxing strolling and viewing the sections, even the little train down was peaceful. We took our tickets to be stamped for tomorrow but if the trails don’t open there will be nothing new to see so I am not sure if there is any value. We get back on Rio Uruguay bus, still damp but a quick hot shower freshens us up ready for our night out. As we near the end of Justin’s 2 months, I am conscious that we should push the boat out a bit and he had spotted a foodie evening that was well reviewed called the Argentine Experience. We could only get tickets for tonight, and as we arrive our host is really welcoming and it turns out we are two of five guests so quite an intimate group. We have a really fun, drunken evening with cocktail mixing, learning how to make empanadas and enjoying perfectly cooked steak with gaucho vegetables. All washed down with wine and finished off with Alfajores (two cookies sandwiched with dulce de Lethe and dipped in chocolate) of which I had at least six. Walked home full and wobbly.

Foz do Iguaçu, Brazil

There are many ways to tackle Iguazu falls, as it is split between Argentina and Brazil we have allowed 3 days in the schedule to cover both. The third day is just in case of bad weather but you can get a second consecutive day on the Argentinian side for half priced entrance fee so we decided as the weather looked good we would go to the Brazilian side today. After breakfast we walked into town to the central bus terminal, there are a couple of companies but the buses with Cruze de Norte looked better so we booked on the next bus. The bus travelled about 15km before approaching the Argentinian border where were were let off to get our stamp out of the country, the bus pulled through and we hopped back on. A further 1km on and the process was repeated to stamp Brazil into our passports. The park was not too much further on and as we approached I was think it looked like a theme park. Very slick operation as you picked the ticket up at the kiosk and caught a shuttle bus to the walk we wanted to take to the falls. You can hear them roaring before you see them but a short walk and we got our first view. These falls are made up of over 275 cattaratas (waterfalls) and from this side they are laid out in front of you. They are vast, I don’t think I managed to get them in one picture as they are so wide and the volume of water going over looks immense. As we take the path down (avoiding the American school group) you are walking parallel to the falls width and Argentinian side on the other side of the Iguazu river. There are big birds circling above, kites or hawks just gliding on the thermals. We get to the foot of the biggest falls and walk out onto the walkway, there are plenty of people in ponchos but in this weather I figure we will dry quick enough. It is an immense spray, deafening noise and really exhilarating just being this close. As you look over you realise there is more beneath, and a rainbow. We do get drenched but nothing too unrecoverable and make our way up in the ‘panoramic elevator’ (should have walked!) to get a view looking into the top of the falls. They really are massive and surging past. Whilst amazing panoramas, I was surprised at only being in the park for a few hours. We had read that there was a bird park nearby worth going to so we ventured across the road to the Parque das Aves. It was really well laid out, and you could go into some enclosures. The best were the tucans and the fabulous macaws. We went as they were fed and the squawking was loud as they swooped past you. Great couple of hours. We reversed the simple bus process back through the border and got off just down from the hotel. Managed steak and wine again for dinner.

Puerto Iguazú, Argentina

People do say that often it is the journey that is the most fun….today was an okay journey and given we were heading to Iguazu it was exciting. The journey: Walk to ferry terminal Ferry crossing from Colonia de Sacramento to Buenos Aires Taxi from ferry to domestic airport (guy was a nutter driver and we were ripped off!) Flight from BA to Puerto Iguazu Bus from airport to our hotel Whilst that feels extensive it went smoothly and was only around 7 hours. Our hotel is lovely and we are mostly just excited to see the falls tomorrow.

Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay

We enjoyed breakfast at Cafe Ubani, we had researched options and they did a decent eggs Benedict so it provided a nice change to have poached eggs. It was then back to the bus station for a trip to Colonia de Sacramento which is 3 hours away but then only a 1 hour ferry back to BA. We arrived about 2pm and after dumping our bags we went and explored the old city. I had read that it was built by the Portuguese in the 17th century and it was lovely strolling through cobbled streets. There are some original buildings and a lighthouse all within an easy stroll. We didn’t take as long as I thought in the area so managed to squeeze a beer in! We ate at Dos 22 this evening, which amused us given the Spanish pronunciation would be Dos dos dos. I had a Milanese which is a speciality in Uruguay and Argentina, delicious.

Montevideo, Uruguay

Today we have to leave our spacious suite (still peeved that they charge for coffee in the room!). I waddle with my excess Punta gained weight down to breakfast where my performance is below a Curle average, fruit and pastries only today. We checkout and stroll to the bus station to catch the COT bus back to Montevideo. We get into Tres Crosses bus station before 2pm and after much confusion, mainly due to my dodgy Spanish accent, get a taxi to the Holiday Inn. Thinking about our return to Montevideo, we felt we had explored the city well enough and as a Sunday much of the attractions are closed for the day so we planned to lose the rest of the day in some fine wine tasting. The Montevideo Wine Experience is run by a really friendly guy, and we decided to sample 3 premium wines. Los cerros de San juan- Mill Los nadies – Equilibrio Gimenez Mendez- premium tannat They are all Tannat wines with the first two being blended. The pure Tannat is a bit full bodied for me, tastes more like a French red which isn’t my thing. The other two blended, one with Cabinet Sauvignon and the other with merlot were fabulous really enjoyed both but if pushed would pick a bottle of Equilibrio. We sashayed back through the city enjoying the quiet Sunday. Dinner was at El Fogon, where I chose pork….should have had the steak as it was fab.

Punta del Este, Uruguay

Woke up to a fabulously sunny day, grazed the breakfast buffet and then strolled the beaches. Great to watch people and feel the warmth of the sun! Walked for a couple of hours before stopping for coffee, we then made ourselves comfortable by the pool in a nicely shaded spot for the afternoon. Dinner was by the harbour and we both enjoyed fish before a ‘freddo’ ice cream on the stroll back. Lovely easy day.