Quito, Ecuador 🇪🇨 

A lazy start to the day as my bus back to Quito is at 11am, so I can enjoy French toast and good coffee whilst I wait. I spot the guys I was zip lining with on the bus and Camilo, a Chilean guy sits next to me. I initially think this is great until I realise he is wearing the same clothes which are a bit fragrant (mine are wrapped in plastic and buried in the bottom of my bag). Otherwise, it’s all good and we arrive into Quito early afternoon.  

My plan was to go up the Telefonica but it is cloudy and raining, so I think the views would be patchy. Instead I head to the old town to see a few different places. I start at the Plaza Grande and visit the Cultural Center, the top floor gives some good views of the now blue sky and there is a bit of contemporary weird art. Next stop is the Iglesias de la Compañia de Jesús. It is billed as Quito’s most beautiful church, it is a Jesuit church that is which is profusely decorated with gold leaf, gilded plaster and wood carvings. I have never seen anything like it, my jaw dropped. Everything was decorated and shining in gold, just amazing to imagine this undertaking in the 18th century.

I walk up the hill a bit enjoying watching woman sell oranges (1dollar for 10) and kids chasing pigeons in Plaza San Francisco. My intention is to walk to the cemetery, but I don’t particularly like the streets and it’s getting late so I double back to Plaza Santa Domingo where I can hop on the trolley bus back to Mariscal (for 25cents!).

I wander to Plaza Foch for dinner at an Italian where they make the pasta in front of you. It’s delicious and it’s clear as it’s Friday night the Plaza will be busy. Not for me though, I have a early night ready for tomorrow and my flight to Colombian adventures. 

Mindo, Ecuador 🇪🇨 

Up early today as apparently the best time to spot birds is from 6am. I walk up to the yellow house at the corner of Mindo where the trails begin, to be met by a lovely old lady who gives me a map and sets me on the path. It is all up hill as I set off on a dirt track to the first trail, I can hear bird chatter but can’t see them. At the entrance to the trail is a notice which includes the advice, not to disturb the Spectacled Bear if you see them. This heightens my senses to every sound as I prepare to run at the slightest sighting.
The early sun, mixed with super large ferns and plants creates a magical setting and I enjoy tramping the first route. I start to see more birds flying around and mainly away from me until I spotted a blotchy painted toucan land on a branch. Toucan’s actually make quite a bit of noise flying so seemed to be easier to spot and I see a green one which I’ve never seen before. The next trail takes me higher to a mirador that lays the forest out in front of me and I can see Mindo far below. I hadn’t realised how far I had climbed. I see a big more traditional Toucan fly in and then see other birds darting from branch to branch, a little red one and a black & yellow one. Scurrying behind me and up a tree is a squirrel which has a auburn coloured belly, unusual.

Finally routing back after 3 hours the heat seems to have waken up the butterflies that flit past me as I walk back down. The lady welcomes me back with a cold juice and invites me onto the porch to watch the hummingbirds that visit her feeders. There are loads and lots of types, she says that there are 3 colonies in the trees in front that feed all day, they are beautiful. After watching them for about 30minutes I quickly walk back to my hostel before breakfast finishes, and it is worth rushing for.

It is a glorious day and as the midday sun passes, I venture up the hill to a zip lining course. There are 3 others that join me on this trip with 2 guides, covering 10 lines over the forest canopy at heights up to 90metres from the ground. It is lots of fun and there are some great views as I whizz past. I bravely try the upside down ‘butterfly’ position which is disorienting and more scary, then discover the ‘superman’ position which lets to see more of the forest as you fly over the top. We Zip for about 2 hours which is awesome, before heading back to town for a well deserved long shower.

Quito, Ecuador 🇪🇨 

Quito is one of my favourite cities, flanked by volcanos and it has the most beautiful skies. I wake up and feel a little sluggish with a sore throat. Post a terrible breakfast, where I had to collect my white bread ration from reception and spread with solid margarine, (coffee was good though) I walk down to Parque Caroline and the Botanical Gardens. I spend a couple of hours in the sunshine enjoying the different vegetation areas that have been created from around Ecuador. The orchid houses are really good, amazing the number of varieties particularly like those which look like small pixie hats. I visit the carnivore plant house and then wind my way back out. The Parque is lovely in the sunshine, even the clouds look fab and fluffy.

I come across a food park based in shipping containers which is cool, I manage to find stomach space for a Inka burger with fries. Taking the route back I visit Mindalae, a museum that houses textiles, ceramics and instruments from Ecuador. I am most interested in how different regions have such different traditional clothes, many are still being worn and I recognise them from areas I have passed through.

I was going to go to the national museum later but it turns out it has been closed for over a year due to a corruption scandal, so that’s out. I read and book Mindo accommodation for tomorrow as I have decided to explore the area for 2 days, taking just my small rucksack for the adventure. Tonight’s dinner is at a little restaurant where I can have the traditional pork hornedo, slow cooked with crackling.

Guayaquil, Ecuador 🇪🇨 

After arriving last night on a uneventful bus, my budget hostel bed was surprisingly comfy. I have not heard many positive reviews of Guayaquil, but I was keen to get out and give it a chance. First stop Parque Bolivar which has the impressive cathedral on one side. My reason for visiting was the Parque wildlife – Iguanas! I found it strange to think that in the middle of this city they existed in a space no bigger than a block. Sure enough they were easy to spot, about 60cm log with a crested top just lying around. I laughed out loud when a gentleman pointed out two in a tall yucca tree. I’d never thought about Iguanas climbing trees. After too many pictures, I walked the near area looking at significant architecture before heading to the Malecon2000.

The Malecon2000 was a multimillion dollar investment that is essentially a riverside boardwalk with a few monuments to break it up. I stroll along acutely aware of the clammy temperature which was just making me sweat, I wasn’t even hungry enough to gain respite from McDonald’s aircon. I walked all the way along and hit Las Penas, a barrio that is more bohemian and is supposed to be more of the original city. I climbed all the steps up to Cerro Santa Ana and the lighthouse on top. I was a big ball of sweat by the top and could find no where open to sit in aircon for a few minutes. The views are great from the top but the cloud cover just makes the city look grey.

As I head back down there are a row of coffee shops, and I visit each one in turn just to ensure I pick the coldest. It is only early afternoon and I am struggling to work out what else I can see to fill the time before my flight tonight. I decide on the cinema, the IMAX has a classical concert being shown so I decide it will at least be cool. It is brilliant, 2 hours of three tenors called Il Volo, with Placido Domingo, really enjoyed it.

Flying from Guayaquil to Quito tonight, mainly because I can’t face another long bus ride. The airport is really close to the city and as I check in they tell me we are leaving early, never had that before. All goes smoothly and my pickup is waiting for me at Quito airport so I am neatly tucked in at my hostel by 11pm. 

Montañita, Ecuador 🇪🇨 

I felt compelled to post pictures of Montañita in the sun!  This changes everything, with people (including me) just hitting the beach.

I am staying here for the weekend, think the yoga is good for me and I don’t think there is enough in Guayaquil to put more than a day there.  I will catch the bus back down on Sunday afternoon.

…I have also discovered a Tropical cider made by the brewery, which is delicious!

Porto Lopez, Ecuador 🇪🇨 

It has been raining all night, so I hoped that maybe I would wake to blue skies. No such luck, the grey cloud cover remains which is a little depressing. I am off to Puerto Lopez today to venture off the coast whale watching. As part of their migration to the Caribbean to calf they pass close to the shore of Ecuador. So I am excited as I eat breakfast in the hostel. I have arranged it through the hostel, essentially I need to catch the public bus to Puerto Lopez where a guy called Don will meet me. It sounds slightly vague as I hop on the back of one of the hostel boys motorbikes to go down the road where we flag down the bus. It all goes smoothly and Don is waiting for me, taking a tuk tuk to the shore. The boat is not leaving right away and I get the chance to wander Puerto Lopez. It doesn’t take long, but watching the fisherman bring in the morning catch and prepare it for onward travel is entertaining, particularly with the Pelicans and Frigate birds wanting their share.

We set off in our boat, about 2 hours after I thought we would but this South American time. There are Pelicans lining the cliffs as we leave the bay and head out about 30minutes. We start looking around for whales and I climb upstairs for a higher vantage point. We spot some tails in the distance and then they come closer. The next hour is spent with me marvelling at these creatures, coupled with trying to get a decent shot. We see about 10 humpback whales and very close to the boat, they dived under and came up, seemed to be putting on a show for us.

We motored back to a bay where we could snorkel and as I didn’t bring my swimmers, I just dozed on the front of the boat. Once back at shore I discovered Don wasn’t around. I was impressed with my understanding when I asked for directions and managed to follow them back to the road. The bus was just pulling up and I hopped on. We wove our way back down the coast and I signalled my stop to successfully make it back to the Hostal. Yoga is at 5pm today, so I had plenty of time to unwind and then do the session. Treated myself to Sushi on the beach tonight with a tropical cider from the microbrewery next door. Shelly, a girl from Reading was behind the bar so we spent the evening talking about travelling and what British foods we missed. 

Montañita, Ecuador 🇪🇨 

Montañita is on the west coast of Ecuador and is considered a bit of a party town. I am at the Point at the end of the beach, so I can walk to the hub of activities but still sleep soundly. It is winter so not much sun but it is a beautiful wide beach and the water is surprisingly warm.  

I get into a nice little routine of waking early, playing a few scrabble moves against the family and then heading to breakfast. This is the best breakfast of the trip with options including French toast, fruit and eggs alongside homemade breads. I try to let this digest before 2hours of yoga and then hitting the hammock. I am reading lots and generally chilling all afternoon before deciding on dinner options. Near us, just off the beach is a Sushi and Thai place which usually wins and I spend the evening listening to the waves and sipping on a beer from the microbrewery next door…..

…..and then repeating.

Montañita, Ecuador 🇪🇨 

All packed, I eat a big breakfast and walk up to the bus station.  The usual hullabaloo ensures as people get on and off, before they move us all forward a row and we set off.  The trip to Guayaquil is just under 4hours and winds first up through El Cajas National Park.  It is great to see this space again and at one point we are above a cloud blanket which feels strange.  

We arrive early into Guayaquil, full of hope that I can catch a earlier bus, I ascend and descend the 3 floor building trying to find a ticket office.  I finally find it with 5minutes spare, rushing to the bus, it is late so I easily hop on and relax into the journey up the coast.  I have booked 5 nights at Montañita, 30metres from the beach at a place that offers yoga.  I feel it will be a good place to relax and stretch out my body a bit.  I am a bit tired and grouchy when I arrive so have a quick bite to eat and head to bed.

Cuenca, Ecuador 🇪🇨 

It is Sunday, even quieter in the city and I feel that after my active day yesterday I should venture up to the mirador Turi.  First stop is a coffee shop that Juliette recommended, only to find her in it so I spend a while exchanging travel tips for Colombia with her.  I then stroll down to the Pumapongo museum shop as I’ve decided to buy a small purse I saw there.  I haven’t gone mad on souvenirs due to space but a few things are nice.

I finally head up to the mirador, which provides a great sweeping view of the city.  There are lots of families up here just enjoying time on a Sunday and taking selfies. The steps back down are exhausting, but I am soon back on the main avenue with a heap of football supporters heading to the stadium for a home game.  I go to a artesianal market which is disappointing and then to the bus station.  It takes an hour of queuing to buy my ticket for tomorrow, I will go to Guayaquil which is a big hub before finding a bus to Montañita.